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It began as part of the Seiko brand but since 2017 it has become an entirely separate entity.

Is Grand Seiko part of the Seiko brand?

The Grand Seiko spring drive movement is the most technologically advanced mechanical movement in the world.

Are Grand Seiko movements good quality?

Where are Grand Seiko watches made?

The quality of a Grand Seiko watch equals that of the best Rolex watch. However, it all comes down to personal preference.

Is Grand Seiko better than Rolex?

Grand Seiko watches are a genuine good value alternative to even the best Swiss luxury brands.

Is Grand Seiko a luxury watch brand?

New Grand Seiko watches tend to depreciate quite quickly but their values then hold steady. So, if bought pre-owned, they can be a sound financial decision.

Is Grand Seiko a good investment watch?

Are Zeno watches a good investment? Zeno watches are great value for money but not normally bought as investment pieces.

Are Zeno watches a good investment?

They produce many different types of watches including – sports, dress and fashion. Something for everyone, they have a great sense of creativity and fun styling.

What type of watches do Zeno produce?

View All Insights

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Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?

“Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

This is a question that I am often asked by our clients. Of course what they are referring to is whether their watch is water resistant – will it leak and ruin the movement, dial and hands?

There are usually three areas that need to be considered when the water resistance of a watch is under examination;
<ul>
 	<li>the caseback</li>
 	<li>the glass</li>
 	<li>the crown</li>
</ul>
During testing, these three components are checked for condition and damage or corrosion. Next the seals fitted between the component and the case are inspected and often replaced. The watch is then pressure tested using a purpose built piece of equipment. When it passes – voila! Your watch is waterproof.

So yes, if it passes the test, you CAN go swimming in a luxury watch. But hang on, there’s another question that needs to be asked ……

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“SHOULD I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

All the watches that we sell here at Oakleigh Watches are superb examples of their type and are all of course very valuable.

I can’t imagine a more hostile environment for a luxury watch than a beach with its salt and sand, or a swimming pool full of chlorine, steel and ceramic tiles. And that’s before you even mention the water! So our advice would be – “yes you can swim in a luxury watch but NO, you probably shouldn’t.”

If you’re at the pool or the beach – relax, forget about the time! Or, if you’re like me and feel a bit lost without something stylish on your wrist, switch your luxury time piece for a much more practical G-Shock!

Oakleigh Watches works alongside local Rolex and Omega service agents <a href="https://www.michlmayr.com/?_ga=2.204148883.2033394945.1721402847-623201293.1721402847">Michlmayr &amp; Co.</a> All of our luxury pre-owned watches are tested to ensure they are water resistant and comply to COSC spec. Some of our more vintage stock will not be water resistant and this will be made clear in the description.

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the-tudor-big-block-listing

The-Tudor-Big-Block-listing

In 1970 Tudor entered the chronograph market with a watch that was very different from its Rolex Daytona brethren – The two incarnations of the ’Monte-Carlo’ were bold, bright and colourful and occupied their own place in the Rolex family lineup, as a slightly inferior model to the Daytona.

Then in 1976 there was a shift and the ‘Big Blocks’ were born. Far from establishing a point of difference from the Rolex Daytona by continuing with the ‘fun’ slightly ‘junior’ theme, Tudor made a watch that was similar to the Daytona and in one key way, actually superior….

As well as toning down the colour palette and producing monochrome chronographs (although exotic-dialed 9000-series ‘Big Block Monte Carlos’ were made), Tudor adopted the Valjoux 7750 movement, not only adding an extra chrono sub dial but also a quick set date and an automatic movement. This automatic movement made the Big Block the first self-winding chronographs from the Rolex group – it would take Rolex themselves well over ten years to make an automatic Daytona and 25 years to make one with an in house movement.

As well as an advanced set of features, the Valjoux movement brought with it the necessity for a deeper case than its predecessors to house the self-winding mechanism and rotor, hence the nickname “Big Block”.

The first Big Blocks were the 9400’s consisting of three references that gave the option of three different bezels:
<ul class="ul1">
 	<li class="li1">9420 with an acrylic tachymeter bezel</li>
 	<li class="li1">9421 with a 12-hour calibrated rotating bezel</li>
 	<li class="li1">9430 with a steel tachymeter bezel</li>
</ul>
In the late 1980’s, the 9400 series was replaced by the 79100 series of Big Blocks and again, there were three references with three bezel types:
<ul class="ul1">
 	<li class="li1">79160 with a black plastic tachymeter bezel</li>
 	<li class="li1">79170 with a black graduated 12-hour rotating bezel;</li>
 	<li class="li1">79180 with a steel tachymeter bezel.</li>
</ul>
By the mid 1990’s Montres TUDOR S.A. was 50 years old and they started to made decisive moves to differentiate themselves from their Rolex brothers. As a consequence the direct references to Rolex were steadily disappearing from the cases, winding crowns and bracelets of Tudor watches to be replaced with own brand alternatives and the day of the Big Block was over.
An important watch and often overlooked, the Big Blocks are one to watch that’s for sure

The Tudor ‘Big Block’

Understanding Watch Model & Serial Numbers

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rolex-16570-polar-2010-listing

Rolex-16570-Polar-2010-listing

Rolex have made several versions of the Explorer II since its launch fifty years ago but here we are mainly concerned with The Rolex Explorer II 16570. We will cover other references but this blog is designed to help you understand why you really should be considering a 16570.

When I first thought of writing this blog piece in the autumn of 2020, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 was one of the most overlooked and undervalued of all modern Rolex sports watches. A few months later I realised that the correction had already begun so I thought I had better get on with the piece

The Rolex Explorer II 1655 – 1971-1984

So firstly, let’s deal with this ‘Steve McQueen’ thing. The first incarnation of the Explorer II was the 1655 and at some time after its launch in 1971, it gained the nickname ‘Steve McQueen’. As no photo has ever come to light of ‘The King of Cool’ actually wearing a 1655 (he was a 5512 man), the reason why remains a mystery.

However, here are a few things that we do know about the 1655:
<ul>
 	<li>It was launched in 1971</li>
 	<li>It was designed mainly for cavers or ‘spelunkers’, hence the massive luminous GMT hand that told you not only the hour but splits of 2 1/2 minutes too, even in the dark.</li>
 	<li>Unlike the Submariners of the time, the Explorer II had a 39mm case.</li>
 	<li>Despite having the same movement as the GMT Master, a pattern that continued until 2011, the 1655 only told the time in one time zone. The ‘GMT’ hand was fixed with the hour hand so it told the same time, just REALLY clearly.</li>
 	<li>Its other nickname is ‘Freccione’ from the Italian word ‘Freccia’ meaning ‘arrow’.</li>
 	<li>Production was discontinued in 1984</li>
 	<li>There were five different dial variations over the 13 year production run</li>
 	<li>It was a popular watch in Germany and the USA but apart from that it was thought a bit of an ugly duckling and sales were disappointing (Great news for collectors and those who have had them from new….)</li>
</ul>
The Rolex Explorer II 16550 – 1984-1989The 16550 is what the watch world refers to as a ‘transitional model’ although to be honest, I’m not sure that the description really fits the bill. While it wasn’t made for very long in Rolex terms, it was made for almost five years so that’s not really a transition.

The thing that makes the 16550 particularly interesting is the dial – for the first time the Explorer II was available with the option of either a black or white dial and while the black dials were fine, the white ones were nearly always faulty. Instead of staying a lovely bright white as Rolex intended, most of them turned a creamy colour, giving them the nickname ‘Panna’ (Cream in Italian). A LOT of these have been replaced by Rolex with lovely shiny white ones, making the remaining cream ones highly collectible and valuable.

There are also some ‘Rail Dial’ examples out there – a Rail Dial is one where the words “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” line up perfectly with an even gap through the middle – like train tracks. These are rarer still and command a higher price.

The hands were changed from the ‘unusual’ design of the 1655 to the more ‘normal’ Mercedes style and this helped to create a look that was more acceptable to the masses.

Again using the GMT Master movement, this time the 3085 from the 16760, the 16550 now had an independent GMT hand so that it was a two time zone watch. The case was made from 316L steel as was the norm in the day and this makes it slightly less bright than the later models – the cases were also made slightly fatter than the later ones to accommodate the 3085 movement.

By the end of the 1990’s Rolex had a new movement and were working with improved 904L steel so they took the opportunity to fix the dial issues and launch a new model.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 – 1989-2011

This is where things get interesting and lead us to the purpose of the piece that I alluded to way up there in the introduction.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 is a very similar watch to the 16550. It has a slightly slimmer case that’s made from a different type of steel and an improved movement but apart from that it’s basically the same watch but less than half the price and that’s a situation that’s unlikely to last for long.

16550s aren’t going to get any cheaper so when the price gap closes, and it will, it will happen through an increase in the price of the 16570.

So, there are four main types of 16570, all available with either a black or white dial:
<ul>
 	<li>1989 to 1998 Tritium dial – expect to pay between £9,000 and £12,000. These are the early watches and prices have already risen alot recently – there’s lots more room yet though.</li>
 	<li>1998 to 1999 Swiss only dial – expect to pay between £8,000 and £10,000. These are the rarest of all Explorer IIs and again, prices are rising sharply.</li>
 	<li>1999 to 2007 Swiss made dial with 3185 movement – expect to pay between £8,500 and £10,000. These are the bulk of 16570s as production numbers were higher in the 2000s and they were made for eight years.</li>
 	<li>2008 to 2009 Swiss made dial with 3186 movement – expect to pay between £10,000 and £12,000. These watches have the updated GMT movement and engraved rehaut and are sought after by those who like the most recent versions of things.</li>
</ul>
The Rolex Explorer II 216570 – 2011 to date.

Also available with both black and white dials like the 16550 and 16570, the 216570 is something of a fusion of old and new.

The 216570 still has the fixed bezel that Explorer IIs have always had and now they have brought back the oversized orange ‘GMT’ hand – so that’s the old. The new is that the GMT hand moves independently and the case size has been increased to 42mm in keeping with modern tastes.

This brings us to the statement made at the beginning of the piece about how the Explorer II 16570 is a classic, appreciating asset.

You see, the 1655 isn’t to everyone’s taste, it’s properly vintage and it’s priced well out of most people’s reach.

In January 2022, a nice 1655 Full Set will set you back something north of £20,000

In its original Panna form, a Full Set 16550 Rail Dial costs over £25,000 these days and even a nice Full Set Polar with a replacement dial can be £17,000 or so (admittedly, black ones are less) and prices are still rising.

Prices of the last 16570s made with the engraved rehaut and the 3186 movement have risen sharply too but the ‘standard’ 16570s, whether Tritium or Superluminova are still great value – it won’t last long though as these things have a way of correcting themselves so if you fancy one then my advice would be not to hang about….

To see the Rolex watches in our current collection <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/brand/pre-owned-rolex">click here</a> and you can see the current range of new Rolex watches <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/shop/new-in?pa_brand=170">here.</a>

The Rolex Explorer II 16570

As I go about my daily business, one question that quite often arises is “does my wrist look big in this watch?”

To be honest the question is more often “is this watch too big for my wrist?”

“Is it too big for me?”

It seems that, in an horological sense at least, both men and women are interested in whether size matters.

I’m very much of the opinion that with the exception of some things that are 50 mm plus, there’s really no such thing as a watch that is too big.

There are certainly some large watches out there that could be considered tasteless, but then there are few brands whose watches haven’t attracted and deserved that criticism at some point in their history, large or not.

Confidence &amp; Courage


So if watches can’t be too big, and people can’t be considered ‘too small’, because that would just be wrong, then the beauty of a large timepiece truly is in the eye of the beholder.

While the majority of our clients are male, I am happy to say that we have several female customers and one of their major considerations tends to be – is this watch too big for their wrist?

Two of our best clients are ladies who wear watches that would generally be considered to have been designed for men. Neither lady is large, in fact one of them could be considered petite, so why don’t their men’s Rolex watches look ridiculous on their slender feminine wrists?

The answer lies not with the watch or indeed the wrist but rather in the mind of the ladies themselves.

Lady A has a polished and sophisticated style and her confidence makes you believe that anything that she wears must surely be right. If Lady A is wearing a Daytona with a dress and heels then surely anyone who questioned it’s suitability would merely be confessing to their own lack of sartorial understanding. In short, she wears a Daytona because she loves it and she carries a lot of confidence and style and that makes it highly appropriate.

The style of Lady B is different, and yet the same when it comes to her watches, because while her style is the epitome of relaxed nonchalance, she wears it and her watches with the confidence that she displays everywhere else in her life.

So there you have it; two ladies – one relaxed and nonchalant, the other poised and considered and yet both confident in their choice of watch and comfortable to carry off whatever look pleases them.

In Conclusion

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To sum up ladies and gentlemen, the decision of whether or not a watch is too big for you is down to to you – if you feel self-conscious in a 40 mm Rolex Submariner then it’s going to look big on you.

Alternatively, if you feel confident and relaxed in a 47 mm Panarai 372 then that is exactly how you will come across.

So no, your wrist doesn’t necessarily look fat in that Bremont.

By Appointment

We have two collections, the original <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/shop">Oakleigh Watches Collection</a> where you’ll find a range of high end pre-owned luxury brands and <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/shop/online-only">Alderleigh by Oakleigh Watches</a> which offers quality used watches at a more affordable level.

If you would like to come and meet us and try on a selection of watches, we offer a bespoke and personal service <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/contact-us">by appointment only</a>. Our offices are based at <a href="https://www.michlmayr.com/?_ga=2.57953386.1306278764.1721915160-93980794.1721915160">Michlmayr &amp; Co Watch Makers</a> in Norwich, Norfolk and all details can be found on our Contact Page.

“Is this watch too big for my wrist?”

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Breguet Marine Royale Alarm

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Model

What's Included

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Reference

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Matching Model

This Breguet Marine Royale Alarm is a spectacular Rose Gold watch from the famous Swiss brand, based on the dive watches that Breguet made for the French Navy - an association stretching back to 1814.
With a rose gold coin-edged case and original rubber strap, this is a very modern watch, blending some very popular materials that combine to create a feeling of sportiness and elegant style.
It has a mechanical alarm, date indicator and power reserve as well as 300m water resistance and a uni-directional dive bezel.  Through the sapphire case back you can see the beautiful Breguet Marine 519R automatic movement with its intricately engraved rotor and plates.
This watch has been worn so lightly that all it needed was sanitising and testing and its ready to go.
Complete with the beautifully crafted boxes and the papers as well as the essential manual.

This Breguet Marine Royale Alarm is a spectacular Rose Gold watch from the famous Swiss brand, complete with boxes, papers and a 12 month warranty.

Breguet Marine Royale Alarm | 2019 | Full Set

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