We promise to invest our time and experience into understanding your needs and desires. We won’t &#8230;
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<ul>
<li>Expect you to have lots of knowledge</li>
<li>Drown you in more detail than you need</li>
<li>Try to push a sale on you</li>
</ul>
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Our aim is to make you feel relaxed and welcome, and to enjoy the Oakleigh Watches experience from start to finish.
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The oakleigh promise

Heuer Watch Company was founded in 1860 by Edouard Heuer and is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. In 1985, Heuer was bought by the TAG Company. The names were combined and a new brand – TAG Heuer was born.

What is the difference between Heuer &#038; TAG Heuer?

Is Heuer classed as a luxury watch?

They tend to be water resistant rather than waterproof. They are not designed for diving.

Are Heuer watches waterproof?

Buying a Pre owned Heuer watch is a good investment as they tend to hold their value well. Vintage models will be more lucrative.

Is a Heuer watch a good investment?

Heuer watches have been in production since 1860 and switched to TAG Heuer in 1985. The models we stock are mainly later reissues of the original 1960’s and 1970’s classic motorsport Heuers.

However, from time to time, we do have original Heuers - so be sure to sign up for<a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/vip-club"> brand alerts</a> so you don’t miss out.

Choosing the right Heuer

View All Insights

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Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?

“Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

This is a question that I am often asked by our clients. Of course what they are referring to is whether their watch is water resistant – will it leak and ruin the movement, dial and hands?

There are usually three areas that need to be considered when the water resistance of a watch is under examination;
<ul>
 	<li>the caseback</li>
 	<li>the glass</li>
 	<li>the crown</li>
</ul>
During testing, these three components are checked for condition and damage or corrosion. Next the seals fitted between the component and the case are inspected and often replaced. The watch is then pressure tested using a purpose built piece of equipment. When it passes – voila! Your watch is waterproof.

So yes, if it passes the test, you CAN go swimming in a luxury watch. But hang on, there’s another question that needs to be asked ……

<img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-8735" src="https://cms.oakleighwatches.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Swim2.jpg" alt="" width="943" height="530" />

“SHOULD I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

All the watches that we sell here at Oakleigh Watches are superb examples of their type and are all of course very valuable.

I can’t imagine a more hostile environment for a luxury watch than a beach with its salt and sand, or a swimming pool full of chlorine, steel and ceramic tiles. And that’s before you even mention the water! So our advice would be – “yes you can swim in a luxury watch but NO, you probably shouldn’t.”

If you’re at the pool or the beach – relax, forget about the time! Or, if you’re like me and feel a bit lost without something stylish on your wrist, switch your luxury time piece for a much more practical G-Shock!

Oakleigh Watches works alongside local Rolex and Omega service agents <a href="https://www.michlmayr.com/?_ga=2.204148883.2033394945.1721402847-623201293.1721402847">Michlmayr &amp; Co.</a> All of our luxury pre-owned watches are tested to ensure they are water resistant and comply to COSC spec. Some of our more vintage stock will not be water resistant and this will be made clear in the description.

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the-tudor-big-block-listing

The-Tudor-Big-Block-listing

In 1970 Tudor entered the chronograph market with a watch that was very different from its Rolex Daytona brethren – The two incarnations of the ’Monte-Carlo’ were bold, bright and colourful and occupied their own place in the Rolex family lineup, as a slightly inferior model to the Daytona.

Then in 1976 there was a shift and the ‘Big Blocks’ were born. Far from establishing a point of difference from the Rolex Daytona by continuing with the ‘fun’ slightly ‘junior’ theme, Tudor made a watch that was similar to the Daytona and in one key way, actually superior….

As well as toning down the colour palette and producing monochrome chronographs (although exotic-dialed 9000-series ‘Big Block Monte Carlos’ were made), Tudor adopted the Valjoux 7750 movement, not only adding an extra chrono sub dial but also a quick set date and an automatic movement. This automatic movement made the Big Block the first self-winding chronographs from the Rolex group – it would take Rolex themselves well over ten years to make an automatic Daytona and 25 years to make one with an in house movement.

As well as an advanced set of features, the Valjoux movement brought with it the necessity for a deeper case than its predecessors to house the self-winding mechanism and rotor, hence the nickname “Big Block”.

The first Big Blocks were the 9400’s consisting of three references that gave the option of three different bezels:
<ul class="ul1">
 	<li class="li1">9420 with an acrylic tachymeter bezel</li>
 	<li class="li1">9421 with a 12-hour calibrated rotating bezel</li>
 	<li class="li1">9430 with a steel tachymeter bezel</li>
</ul>
In the late 1980’s, the 9400 series was replaced by the 79100 series of Big Blocks and again, there were three references with three bezel types:
<ul class="ul1">
 	<li class="li1">79160 with a black plastic tachymeter bezel</li>
 	<li class="li1">79170 with a black graduated 12-hour rotating bezel;</li>
 	<li class="li1">79180 with a steel tachymeter bezel.</li>
</ul>
By the mid 1990’s Montres TUDOR S.A. was 50 years old and they started to made decisive moves to differentiate themselves from their Rolex brothers. As a consequence the direct references to Rolex were steadily disappearing from the cases, winding crowns and bracelets of Tudor watches to be replaced with own brand alternatives and the day of the Big Block was over.
An important watch and often overlooked, the Big Blocks are one to watch that’s for sure

The Tudor ‘Big Block’

Understanding Watch Model & Serial Numbers

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rolex-16570-polar-2010-listing

Rolex-16570-Polar-2010-listing

Rolex have made several versions of the Explorer II since its launch fifty years ago but here we are mainly concerned with The Rolex Explorer II 16570. We will cover other references but this blog is designed to help you understand why you really should be considering a 16570.

When I first thought of writing this blog piece in the autumn of 2020, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 was one of the most overlooked and undervalued of all modern Rolex sports watches. A few months later I realised that the correction had already begun so I thought I had better get on with the piece

The Rolex Explorer II 1655 – 1971-1984

So firstly, let’s deal with this ‘Steve McQueen’ thing. The first incarnation of the Explorer II was the 1655 and at some time after its launch in 1971, it gained the nickname ‘Steve McQueen’. As no photo has ever come to light of ‘The King of Cool’ actually wearing a 1655 (he was a 5512 man), the reason why remains a mystery.

However, here are a few things that we do know about the 1655:
<ul>
 	<li>It was launched in 1971</li>
 	<li>It was designed mainly for cavers or ‘spelunkers’, hence the massive luminous GMT hand that told you not only the hour but splits of 2 1/2 minutes too, even in the dark.</li>
 	<li>Unlike the Submariners of the time, the Explorer II had a 39mm case.</li>
 	<li>Despite having the same movement as the GMT Master, a pattern that continued until 2011, the 1655 only told the time in one time zone. The ‘GMT’ hand was fixed with the hour hand so it told the same time, just REALLY clearly.</li>
 	<li>Its other nickname is ‘Freccione’ from the Italian word ‘Freccia’ meaning ‘arrow’.</li>
 	<li>Production was discontinued in 1984</li>
 	<li>There were five different dial variations over the 13 year production run</li>
 	<li>It was a popular watch in Germany and the USA but apart from that it was thought a bit of an ugly duckling and sales were disappointing (Great news for collectors and those who have had them from new….)</li>
</ul>
The Rolex Explorer II 16550 – 1984-1989The 16550 is what the watch world refers to as a ‘transitional model’ although to be honest, I’m not sure that the description really fits the bill. While it wasn’t made for very long in Rolex terms, it was made for almost five years so that’s not really a transition.

The thing that makes the 16550 particularly interesting is the dial – for the first time the Explorer II was available with the option of either a black or white dial and while the black dials were fine, the white ones were nearly always faulty. Instead of staying a lovely bright white as Rolex intended, most of them turned a creamy colour, giving them the nickname ‘Panna’ (Cream in Italian). A LOT of these have been replaced by Rolex with lovely shiny white ones, making the remaining cream ones highly collectible and valuable.

There are also some ‘Rail Dial’ examples out there – a Rail Dial is one where the words “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” line up perfectly with an even gap through the middle – like train tracks. These are rarer still and command a higher price.

The hands were changed from the ‘unusual’ design of the 1655 to the more ‘normal’ Mercedes style and this helped to create a look that was more acceptable to the masses.

Again using the GMT Master movement, this time the 3085 from the 16760, the 16550 now had an independent GMT hand so that it was a two time zone watch. The case was made from 316L steel as was the norm in the day and this makes it slightly less bright than the later models – the cases were also made slightly fatter than the later ones to accommodate the 3085 movement.

By the end of the 1990’s Rolex had a new movement and were working with improved 904L steel so they took the opportunity to fix the dial issues and launch a new model.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 – 1989-2011

This is where things get interesting and lead us to the purpose of the piece that I alluded to way up there in the introduction.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 is a very similar watch to the 16550. It has a slightly slimmer case that’s made from a different type of steel and an improved movement but apart from that it’s basically the same watch but less than half the price and that’s a situation that’s unlikely to last for long.

16550s aren’t going to get any cheaper so when the price gap closes, and it will, it will happen through an increase in the price of the 16570.

So, there are four main types of 16570, all available with either a black or white dial:
<ul>
 	<li>1989 to 1998 Tritium dial – expect to pay between £9,000 and £12,000. These are the early watches and prices have already risen alot recently – there’s lots more room yet though.</li>
 	<li>1998 to 1999 Swiss only dial – expect to pay between £8,000 and £10,000. These are the rarest of all Explorer IIs and again, prices are rising sharply.</li>
 	<li>1999 to 2007 Swiss made dial with 3185 movement – expect to pay between £8,500 and £10,000. These are the bulk of 16570s as production numbers were higher in the 2000s and they were made for eight years.</li>
 	<li>2008 to 2009 Swiss made dial with 3186 movement – expect to pay between £10,000 and £12,000. These watches have the updated GMT movement and engraved rehaut and are sought after by those who like the most recent versions of things.</li>
</ul>
The Rolex Explorer II 216570 – 2011 to date.

Also available with both black and white dials like the 16550 and 16570, the 216570 is something of a fusion of old and new.

The 216570 still has the fixed bezel that Explorer IIs have always had and now they have brought back the oversized orange ‘GMT’ hand – so that’s the old. The new is that the GMT hand moves independently and the case size has been increased to 42mm in keeping with modern tastes.

This brings us to the statement made at the beginning of the piece about how the Explorer II 16570 is a classic, appreciating asset.

You see, the 1655 isn’t to everyone’s taste, it’s properly vintage and it’s priced well out of most people’s reach.

In January 2022, a nice 1655 Full Set will set you back something north of £20,000

In its original Panna form, a Full Set 16550 Rail Dial costs over £25,000 these days and even a nice Full Set Polar with a replacement dial can be £17,000 or so (admittedly, black ones are less) and prices are still rising.

Prices of the last 16570s made with the engraved rehaut and the 3186 movement have risen sharply too but the ‘standard’ 16570s, whether Tritium or Superluminova are still great value – it won’t last long though as these things have a way of correcting themselves so if you fancy one then my advice would be not to hang about….

To see the Rolex watches in our current collection <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/brand/pre-owned-rolex">click here</a> and you can see the current range of new Rolex watches <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/shop/new-in?pa_brand=170">here.</a>

The Rolex Explorer II 16570

When buying a pre-owned luxury watch, it is not unusual to ask the question – “Is that the original Rolex X, Y or Z?”

Many people can be sticklers for originality. Why is this I wonder?

I suppose it’s because a watch that has had lots of parts replaced is a bit like ‘Trigger’s broom’ and perhaps that 1993 Submariner may not all be that old. Buying an original Rolex, with all the date corresponding parts, can be extremely important to many people.

So what gets changed over time? Why does it happen? And how important is it?

Let’s see shall we…?

The Dial

This is the most obvious and important component of any watch. When it comes to originality and this is the first place that you should look.

With a Rolex there are so many subtle differences, especially with the most collectable models, that it takes a specialist to be really confident of what they’re dealing with. It’s this and this alone which has led us to decline politely whenever we’ve been asked to source a Paul Newman Daytona for a client. It’s a minefield – one that’s certainly possible to cross safely but not a journey that I want to make myself.

At a more straightforward level, the dial of a Rolex can often be dated by the markings that relate to the type of luminous material used on the hour markers. Over the years Rolex watches have been marked with Radium, Tritium, Luminova and Super Luminova. The first two of which were dangerously radioactive to the poor devils who had to work with it.

By looking carefully at the markings at the bottom of the dial which relate to the type of material used – “Swiss”, “Swiss T – &lt; 25”, “T Swiss T”, “Swiss Made” etc., we can tell if the dial is correct for the model and year of the watch.

Why would you change an Original Rolex dial?

There are a few reasons including personal preference (not common), water ingress damage (also uncommon) and the most likely which is deterioration of the existing dial through damp, light or failure.

Over a period of time, watch dials can fade unevenly. The ‘lume’ can detach and the overall finish can deteriorate, sometimes creating what’s known as a ‘spider dial’. Dials also sometimes change colour completely and turn ‘tropical’.

Any of these situations would cause Rolex to replace the dial at service. It is usually both obligatory and chargeable.

The watch would then have what’s known as a ‘service’ or ‘replacement’ dial. It’s a genuine Rolex dial but of a later period than the rest of the watch. There is nothing wrong with a watch like this, although it is worth slightly less than a completely original version.

A service dial is not to be confused with a ‘redial’ which is where the original dial, or sometimes a different dial completely, is repainted by somebody other than Rolex. These dials are considered fake and significantly reduce the value and desirability of the watch.

One measure that is often discussed when deciding if a dial is original is the brightness of the lume. Over time, the luminosity of both the dial and the hands will fade and decades later they should usually no longer glow.

However, the key words here are “should” and “usually”. This method is not infallible because for instance Rolex Submariner dials from the mid 1960’s are well known for retaining luminosity even after fifty years. Ah, the vagaries of the Vintage Rolex.

Hands

The next most important thing to look out for the originality of is the hands. As with the dial, these can sometimes corrode or lose their lume and consequently will be replaced at service or possibly have the lume re applied by a watchmaker.

The same luminosity rules apply as with the dial and a good way to check the originality of the hands is to see whether the lume has faded to the same colour as the dial. Again, far from infallible though because original hands and dials can easily have come from different factory batches and therefore fade at different rates and to different degrees. It is a mistake to think that every component of a vintage watch was originally made at the same time and therefore will age identically.

Generally speaking, non-original hands won’t make a massive difference to the value of the watch unless it is ultra rare and highly collectable but they do make a difference.

The Bezel Insert

On the majority of Rolex sports watches the bezel insert is made of relatively soft aluminium with a painted finish that can quite easily get scratched. Rolex will often change these at service or owners may have them changed through choice.

The originality of the insert isn’t nearly as important as the dial or the hands and if a period insert is required, replacements are readily available at a relatively modest cost.

The Crystal or Plexi

The originality of the crystal or plexiglass can sometimes be important but unfortunately is usually nigh on impossible to guarantee. As long as it is made of the correct material, is of the right profile and is an original Rolex product then any more is very difficult to ascertain.

It is sometimes possible to spot a non original Rolex plexi or crystal by touch and feel although the most obvious giveaway is that replacements sometimes have the wrong degree of magnification on the date ‘cyclops.’ A schoolboy error.

The Crown

Because the crown is regularly used to wind the watch and because it screws into the Oyster case, it is designed to be a service replaceable part. Consequently it is not unusual for any watch over 20 years old or so to have had a replacement crown. As long as it is genuine and of the right style, this is not a problem.

Internal Components

One of the main purposes of servicing a Rolex is to lubricate the internal components, replacing the Rolex original lubricants that dry out over time. A complicated mechanical movement containing dozens of parts is bound to need something replaced from time to time. So some degree of lack of originality is not at all problematic. It is also often impossible to detect without completely stripping the movement down.

The Bracelet, Strap or Buckle

Over time, any leather strap will deteriorate and so on a vintage watch it is likely to have been replaced. Whether it was replaced with an original Rolex strap is largely academic as Rolex don’t make their own straps and so we never advise anyone to get hung up on this as an issue.

Buckles are different because quite often they can be made of a precious metal and if lost, clearly will affect the value of the watch. Also, unlike straps, original buckles will have a specific visual style and replacement buckles can sometimes just look wrong.

Rolex bracelets have changed quite significantly over the years and having the correct type of bracelet i.e. Oyster, Heavy Oyster, Jubilee, President etc is important. Within each type, manufacturing processes have changed over the years and while there are no hard and fast rules for which process was used in precisely which year, there is a progression and fairly accurate guidelines. Consequently it is important to know whether your vintage Rolex bracelet should be riveted, folded or forged to match the age of the watch.

One very helpful factor is that Rolex bracelet clasps usually carry a stamp that can be used to date the bracelet. Bear in mind though that a 1972 watch doesn’t necessarily have to have a 1972 bracelet in order to be original and correct. It all depends on what was available when the watch was put together and for this 1972 watch a bracelet from 1970, ’71 or even ’73 could be perfectly original.

The Minefield

See, I told you it was tricky but hopefully you’ve at least found this article interesting and helpful in some way. You might find our article – Does this vintage watc have the correct box? – a useful read too!

As always, the best advice that I can ever give to anyone buying a luxury watch of any age or brand is that unless you are an expert, always buy from a reputable seller who you can trust.

We are proud of our 5 StarTrust Pilot rating, check our many happy customer reviews.

Be careful out there…

Is that the Original...?

1x1-8763

Heuer Chronograph 1059/33 NOS

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Movement

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This Heuer Chronograph 1059/33 is an amazing time warp watch, perfect for the collector.
When we took the back off the watch when we bought it, our watchmakers confirmed that it had never been removed before and that the movement has never been serviced.  The movement is exactly as it was when it was made in the mid 1960's.  It's a little dry but is perfect and we have left it untouched.
The case shows only handling marks and the silver sunburst dial and hands are as new.  The orange chronograph hand is as bright as the day it was made 60 years ago.
This Heuer Chronograph is watch only.
For more Heuer Watches visit our <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/brand/heuer">Heuer </a>Brand page.

This Heuer Chronograph 1059/33 is an amazing time warp watch, perfect for the collector. It is untouched since it was made in the 1960s

Vintage Heuer Chronograph | 1960s | Watch Only

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Heuer Chronograph 1059/33 NOS

£2,750