Is my watch self winding?

When buying or owning a luxury watch, we understand that you might feel a bit silly or naive asking the question – is this a self winding watch? But trust us, the answer isn’t that simple and therefore it is a great question.

In fact, as a professional watch trader I recommend this be one of the first questions you ask when buying a pre-owned luxury watch and/or if your new purchase suddenly stops working.

Ultimately the answer depends on what type of watch you’ve got. Broadly speaking, there are three types of watch movement: quartz, manual and automatic. So, let’s take them one at a time.

Plus, keep reading to the bottom where we have included a quick reference table of example watches under each type of movement.

Quartz Movement

The movement of a quartz watch is powered by a battery. It never needs to be wound up. It just runs efficiently and accurately until the battery dies and then you pop in another one and away you go. A quartz watch never needs winding. This is a not a self winding watch.

Manual Movement

This is a mechanical watch movement powered by a mainspring that must be wound by hand in the old-fashioned way. Probably the most famous of all hand wound watches is the Omega Speedmaster, which was chosen for NASA space missions because automatic movements don’t work in zero gravity.

Once fully wound, a Speedmaster will run for between 48 and 50 hours before it stops and needs to be wound again. Of course, there is no problem with winding the main spring in the meantime to keep it fully wound so that it never stops. Again – this is not a self winding watch.

Automatic Movement (Self Winding)

The first automatic movement was designed at the end of the 18th century and its design is usually attributed to Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet. Of course, as with many things horological, the glory was subsequently taken by Hans Wilsdorf’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual movement which was patented in 1931.

These days, most quality Swiss watch movements are automatic or self winding and this is considered to be the standard. A rotor is attached to the watches movement so that when you move your wrist, the rotor spins and winds the watch back up again by tightening the mainspring.

The amount of time that an automatic watch will run off the wrist before stopping is called the “power reserve“. The power reserve of most quality self winding watches these days is between 48 and 72 hours.

Any watchmakers who achieve more than this quite rightly considers it a significant feat so sometimes you will see a watch described as “8 Days” or maybe even “12 Days”. This refers to the fact that the particular watch has a power reserve far and away above the average.

Once the mainspring is fully charged, an automatic watch worn daily will run without stopping until the movement needs to be serviced.

Does this mean that an automatic watch never needs winding?

No, it doesn’t, and this is the not so simple bit.

When it first leaves the factory, it’s possible that the auto movement of the watch will work so efficiently that it will charge the main spring to its full power just based on the kinetic energy of the movement of your wrist. Once that watch becomes a few years old however, this becomes increasingly unlikely. It’s also unlikely when a watch sits unworn for an extended period of time.

We always recommend that if an automatic watch has stopped through lack of movement, the main spring should be fully charged through winding before its worn. This gives the automatic movement every opportunity to operate efficiently and as expected and keep your watch, running accurately.

How should I wind my watch?

The most important thing to remember when winding your watch is to take it off your wrist first. Winding your watch while you’re still wearing it puts undue pressure on the crown stem and can cause damage to the movement.

Then unscrew or pull out the crown to the winding position (you will feel the spring release) and wind it 40 to 50 times in a forward direction. On an automatic watch, you will not feel any increased resistance when winding, so just stop when you’ve reached the full amount. On a manual wind watch, you will feel the increased resistance from the tightening mainspring and when full resistance is reached, you won’t be able to wind it any further. Continuing to force the crown forwards once fully wound will damage your movement so a little empathy can be required.

If you’re wondering whether you should be using an automatic watch winder to save you all the trouble, our Guide to Watch Winders will be a useful read.

In Conclusion

Is my watch self winding or do I need to wind my watch? Check our handy quick reference tables below and if you’re not sure, don’t be afraid to ask.

Owning a luxury watch brings great pleasure and subsequently slight responsibility. Therefore, when choosing the right watch for you, think about the type of movement and commitment you’re prepared to make.

As well as following our watch winding advice, it’s a good idea to have your watch serviced by an authorized service centre for the brand or by the brand itself once every five years. During those years, the lubricants in the watch could have dried up. While it is serviced you can also ask to have scratches removed from the metal case or bracelet. However, if you value the originality of the watch, don’t let the service centre replace the dial or hands.

Oakleigh Watches is based at Michlmayr & Co the largest service agents for Rolex and Omega (among other brands) in Norfolk. With over 30 years’ experience, Simon Michlmayr and his team are more than qualified to look after all our pre-owned watch servicing and repairs.  Plus, all Oakleigh VIP members will receive a 15% discount on watch servicing.

Quick Reference Guide 

This list isn’t exhaustive, it’s just a guide to some of the more famous watches that carry each type of movement. If you are unsure, ask an expert. We’re always happy to help.